Rochas Spring 2010

Wednesday, October 14, 2009 at 12:35 PM
from Just Sayin'

Olivier Theyskens is appointed Creative Director at Rochas after years of remaining dormant and concentrating on their perfume endeavours. He breathes fresh life into an otherwise dead brand to the delight of the fashion media and connoisseurs.

Pictures from Rochas Fall 2003 Collection

Olivier is awarded the CFDA International Award(deservingly so), Rochas garners a reputation as a couture-quality house and is worn by A-list celebrities the world over. However, being owned by a profit-driven company like Procter & Gamble(known mostly for owning toothpastes, laundry detergents, etc), they decide to discontinue the fashion line and keep only the perfumes. Although the fashion world is shocked, it is not however a surprise move considering the range of products under the Procter & Gamble umbrella.

In a surprise move, it is announced that Rochas will reopen as a fashion house.
Marco Zanini is appointed to Creative Director. His first showing is during Fall 2009 Fashion week as an installation versus a full blown runway showing. His first runway collection is presented in Paris for Spring 2010 to generally favourable reviews.

Pictures from Rochas Spring 2010 Collection

Except me.

First of all, let me point out that this is nothing against Marco Zanini per se. I appreciate the tailoring and overall look. Compared to most shows shown in Paris though, it did not leave me wanting more nor did I see the collection as particularly innovative. I don't think it showcases a clear point of view, nor do I think it establishes a particular aesthetic for the brand. I'm mostly peeved at how the house of Rochas has been treated by parent company Procter & Gamble. I can see why they would initially want to invest in a company who's sent is such a good seller worldwide. Why they couldn't have done what they have with Lacoste, where they own the Cologne division but no part in the actual fashion brand is beyond me.

The reality of fashion houses nowadays is that hardly any of them would survive were it not for the backing of large luxury companies like Gucci Group and LVMH. Why on earth would a company such as Procter & Gamble, whose focus is on household cleaning products and beauty products, decide to take a gamble(sorry, couldn't help it) on a fashion house and treat it with such disrespect. What's the point?

And why disolve the fashion house only to bring it back 2 years later with a new designer?

Here's hoping Zanini finds his footing and is allowed some creative control. If not, Rochas would've been better off staying asleep.


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